Aux 1 waste-not with 120v AC opportunity load; Will this work?

[hansenjw]

Yeah, an Arduino could do PWM. I suppose that would give me infinitely variable control of the heat output, but I would need to rectify the AC voltage to DC and probably use some capacitors to prevent the PWM load from affecting my inverter. My Magnum inverter would <probably> be ok with a rapidly switching load, but I don't want to risk it and it would be a lot more complicated.

I did solve another problem in my head though. The issue is that the Classic outputs a 12v signal and an Arduino accepts a 5v signal. I read online that an optocoupler would be a good solution to isolate that circuit and drop the voltage, but I realized a simpler solution would be to switch the classic from 12v to dry-contact mode. That way I just treat the Classic as a simple switch using the 5v from the Arduino and it's completely isolated. I ran a voltage drop calculator because I have a long run of wire that the signal would go through and it came to only a 2.4% drop, so I think it will work well.

So now the entire list of parts I would need are...
- Arduino Nano(?)
- 2x 10a SSR, 5v switching voltage, with heat sinks
- Between 10-500 hours of my time 

[ClassicCrazy]

Yeah, an Arduino could do PWM. I suppose that would give me infinitely variable control of the heat output, but I would need to rectify the AC voltage to DC and probably use some capacitors to prevent the PWM load from affecting my inverter. My Magnum inverter would <probably> be ok with a rapidly switching load, but I don't want to risk it and it would be a lot more complicated.

I did solve another problem in my head though. The issue is that the Classic outputs a 12v signal and an Arduino accepts a 5v signal. I read online that an optocoupler would be a good solution to isolate that circuit and drop the voltage, but I realized a simpler solution would be to switch the classic from 12v to dry-contact mode. That way I just treat the Classic as a simple switch using the 5v from the Arduino and it's completely isolated. I ran a voltage drop calculator because I have a long run of wire that the signal would go through and it came to only a 2.4% drop, so I think it will work well.

So now the entire list of parts I would need are...
- Arduino Nano(?)
- 2x 10a SSR, 5v switching voltage, with heat sinks
- Between 10-500 hours of my time 

Yeah I forgot about switching AC like that - and I should know because I have been doing it via AUX 2 and it does effect the inverter output  -  it makes my LED lights flicker when it is active. Other things like my computer monitor don't notice it . Probably not good for any of the power loads. Though I keep using it because it works so well at utilizing the extra power automatically.
These are the best deal on Crydom zero crossing point relay . I got one and it works fine. The only difference on this and other model relay is that hex terminal but wasn't a big deal as it took a ring terminal okay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/262852016800
It doesn't have an led to show when it is on - which is a nice feature that is on other SSR that I have.
Lots of cheap ( fake brand names )  SSR's out there on the market , though some of them work okay.
If you don't mind waiting a month or so to get your relays I have bought from this aliexpress company - they have higher voltage DC rated relays too which I have successfully used ( until I went over the 220v dc rating and it quit working !)
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/5105062?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802PyIuWx

Larry

[kitestrings]

I'd just give a shout out to a company here in the States called VB Controls.  They make IMO high quality, competitively priced relays.  Their support is also good.  After a couple of failures with some of the inexpensive internet "deals", I've moved to these and had no problems.  We do load diversion, but using DC elements, and relays, on Waste-Not.

We also have a couple of the Teledyne relays, and they've worked well.

Did you get something up and working for you?  Best, ~ks