Settings for my Classic 150

Started by mtfalk64, July 06, 2013, 11:16:11 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

mtfalk64

Can anyone help me with settings on the Classic 150 for the ABSORB/FLOAT/EQ, etc 
I am currently running
1 - Classic 150
12 - Sharp 250 watt 24 volt panels (30 VPM) (8.4 Amp) connected in 48v series
                ELECTRICAL CHARACTERISTICS
                •Maximum Power: (Pmax)* 250 W
                •Tolerance of Pmax: -5%/+10%
                •Type of Cell Polycrystalline silicon
                •Cell Configuration 60 in series
                •Open Circuit Voltage (Voc) 38.3 V
                •Maximum Power Voltage (Vpm) 29.8 V
                •Short Circuit Current (Isc) 8.9 A
                •Maximum Power Current (Ipm) 8.4 A
                •Module Effiency: 15.2%
                •Maximum System (DC) Voltage 1000 V
                •Series Fuse Rating 15 A
                •NOCT 46.2°C
                •Temperature Coefficient (Pmax)-0.439%/°C
                •Temperature Coefficient-0.321%/°C
                •Temperature Coefficient 0.050%/°C
                •* Illumination of 1 kW/m2 (1 sun) at spectral distribution of AM 1.5


16 - 6 volt batteries connected in 24 volt series
                        •20 amp hour rate:215
                        •5 amp hour rate:157
                        •6 amp hour rate:156
                        •BCI Group Size:GC2
                        •Contents:ONE EACH
                        •Minutes at 25 amps:395
                        •Minutes at 75 amps:105
                        •Volts:6



TomW

64;

We will need to know the type of batteries, AGM, sealed, flooded to give an answer as it varies between battery types.

Brand and model would be a good place to start.

Tom
Do NOT mistake me for any kind of "expert".

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)


24 Trina 310 watt modules, SMA SunnyBoy 7.7 KW Grid Tie inverter.

I thought that they were angels, but much to my surprise, We climbed aboard their starship and headed for the skies

mtfalk64


Robin

The 3000 watt array is too large for a single Classic. At 24 volts out, that would be 125 amps. This is pushing it to the max. IT will run very hot, so be advised. Did you run this through our string sizer on the website? If it said it is ok, then no worries, but this sure sounds too large on the surface.
Robin Gudgel

mtfalk64

#4
I have my Classic set at 85 amp max input and 85 amp max output to the batteries.  Because I have trees that I am not able to cut down I lose some of my power so only about a two months is the panels in full sun.  During the winter months I am switching on the addition 10 to 12 panels to give me about 3 to 4 kw per day.  Currently I am only bringing in 9 to 11 kw per day with these 12 panels.  The sizing tools said 1.2 classic is needed.  having 2 - 24 volt panels in series shows the sizing at 1.2.

dgd

With all those 6v cells I would be inclined to configure them as a 48v bank, two parallel strings of 8 cells.  :D
Then reconfigure those 12 PVs into four strings of three, giving 3*30mpv=90 volts output
This would work well within the limits of the Classic which would run cool  :D  even with all 3Kw of PVs lit up.  8)

With these flooded cells in 48v bank I would start with 54.8v float, 57.8v absorb and 61v equalise

dgd
Classic 250, 150,  20 140w, 6 250w PVs, 2Kw turbine, MN ac Clipper, Epanel/MNdc, Trace SW3024E (1997), Century 1050Ah 24V FLA (1999). Arduino power monitoring and web server.  Off grid since 4/2000
West Auckland, New Zealand

Halfcrazy

I have to agree with DGD. 16 of those in a 24 volt arrangement is playing with fire. If you have bus bars and equal length cables they will last longer but I still get nervous with 3 or more strings of batteries.
Ryan
Changing the way wind turbines operate one smoke filled box at a time

mtfalk64

#7
I thank all for your help.  The problem I have is that I already own 1-1500 watt 24 volt, 1-2300 watt 24 volt, and 1-3000 watt 24 volt inverters.  I use the 3000 watt for just my well pump and the 2300 is for tv, washer, lights, etc, both of these are turned off when not home.  The 1500 watt is left on 24/7 and is for the freezer and refrigerator.  I would rather knock my batteries down to 12 of them and have 4 as backup.  My next step is to purchase a second Classic 150 as soon as one is scratched or dented.  HINT! HINT!  LOL

My batteries all have very short cables between them.  I set them up so they just have enough cable to reach to the next terminal.  The cable to the inverters is about 6 foot of less.  Mainly the batteries are for long weeks that I have little sun. 

Thanks

Mike
 

dgd

Quote from: mtfalk64 on July 12, 2013, 04:17:40 PM
... The problem I have is that I already own 1-1500 watt 24 volt, 1-2300 watt 24 volt, and 1-3000 watt 24 volt inverters.   

ok, so its  the existing 24v inverters that are keeping you with a 24v battery bank.. and to get full use of the panels you need another Classic. I'm sort of still of the opinion that changing to 48v battery bank would let you use all 16 batteries in two strings, prolong their life significantly compared  to operating 3 or 4 strings of 4 - hence saving significant replacement costs or at least making replacement later rather than sooner, run _all_ PVs on the existing Classic and be easier on the pv wiring plus save the cost of a Classic and its associated wiring/breakers etc..
The issue then is the inverters. Probably selling these and changing to 48V DC input types. Depends on whether pure sine types needed for all applcations or can one or two of them be lower cost mod sine types?
Just my thoughts, I know if it were me then I would go the 48V direction and startl looking for inverters.
There is also the possibility of using a grid tie inverter here as they are such low cost.

dgd
Classic 250, 150,  20 140w, 6 250w PVs, 2Kw turbine, MN ac Clipper, Epanel/MNdc, Trace SW3024E (1997), Century 1050Ah 24V FLA (1999). Arduino power monitoring and web server.  Off grid since 4/2000
West Auckland, New Zealand

mtfalk64

#9
Thanks for the quick answer. 

About the grid tie inverters, it has come across my mind, but I have seen them about $120.00 each.  Is that what you have come across or do you know a better place to pick them up.  Now being that I am 100% off grid, would there be a big advantage of putting micro inverters on each panel bringing in 110 volt a/c then charging my batteries?  I have looked into the 48v inverters and with limited income it was something I put to the side.  But I have not given up on looking at them.  I really dont need pure sine wave.

thanks

Mike