Changing the Shunt for Whizbang and End Amps value

[ClassicCrazy]

I just tried to find the setting to change the shunt from Classic internal to use the external shunt. The directions which came with the Whizbang say to look under Charge, then Advanced but I don't see any other menu for the shunt . I have 1609 firmware.

I am watching the Local Status App and the system amps as reported by Whizbang Jr. It does jump around between 4.7 to 3.8 at the present time . I am trying to determine what to use for ending amps . Since this value jumps around is there some averaging going on to tell the Classic when to go to Float if i use the Whizbang to do that ? Or will it go to float as soon as one of the jumpy amps readings gets to the value I put in for it ? For reference I am also watching the Trimetric which is a bit more stable in it's amp reading. 

I was trying to watch for the less than 0,10 change in one hour that that the battery manufacturer ( East Penn Deka ) says to use to terminate the Absorb - but I think that is a very difficult point to determine even with the best battery monitors.

[Vic]

Hi CC,

looking at the included instructions for the WbJr,  it does say to, 'Select Charge,  then select Advanced,  THEN PRESS THE SOFT LEFT KEY (note this soft key is the rectangular one just ABOVE the left arrow key) until the Annunciator  (just above the soft left key) reads "  shunt  ",  '

Then I believe that you need to use the End Amps screen  in the Advanced menu to select your desired EA value.

In the instructions,  it is noted that when  the  current measured by the Wb's shunt reads a value BELOW  the value specified by you (in the EA setting),  for ONE MINUTE,  then the Classic/s will transition to Float.

MPPT CCs do have some current jitter.  Really,  all CCs have current jitter.  And one of the disadvantages of AGM Batts,  is that they are often speced for EA values that are astonishingly small,  like 0.1 or even 0.01 C,  which,  on a PV charged system may well never be seen,  and jitter is not the only reason that this may never happen --  often, the solar day is just tooooooooooo short to reach that value.

Opinions.  Have Fun,  Happy TG,  if you are in the US.   Vic

[ClassicCrazy]

Yes Vic - I was following those directions and could not find that menu item.
The batteries I have are flooded lead acid - not AGM
I will have to look around in the menu's again - maybe it got moved in one of the firmware updates.

[Vic]

OK CC,

Sorry,  am really too busy today to even reply at all ..

OK  why not just get the latest FW?:
http://www.midnitesolar.com/firmwareReport.php?firmware_ID=5&firmwareProduct_ID=1&act=edit

The above link may do it,  if not look on the MN Solar site.

A signature line sure helps some of us guess better about your system.  Model #s for things like batts ant PVs help,  often ...

OK,  that Deka spec is Acceptance vs time.  Good Luck with that.  Most FLAs are fully charged between 2% and 1% of 20 hr Capacity,  at REASONABLE Vabs.

You can find the sweet spot by watching the change in  charge current vs time,  and/or use the venerable Hydrometer.

Was just trying to quickly guess the issue that you were having,  and hoped that a drive-by post might do the trick  (on a day when this site may not be well attended).  Sorry I guessed wrong.  Good Luck ... back to gluing pipe.   Vic

[ClassicCrazy]

Thanks for taking the time to help Vic. I figured it out. The instructions were correct though maybe a bit confusing. It said to press the left soft button - which I interpreted to be the left arrow button. It was the left top button . There is not exactly a menu which I was expecting and looking for - but the bottom of the screen in the left changes to say Shunt - like is says in the directions.

And yeah good idea on putting my system details in the signature line. Have a good Thanksgiving

[boB]

A bit late to the party but glad you found the SHUNT/CLASSIC  selection button.

Yes, we need to average that jumpy current a bit slower...  A few times slower.

It is averaged, just not like the Classic output amps for example.

boB

[windpro]

Maybe I am missing something but I thought the plan is to move to adjusting the Classic settings via a remote interface on a computer.  Is that still the plan? 

I know I struggle with the menu by using the push buttons as once I have a version figured out it does tend to change. Compiled that making adjustments in the northern states in the Winter is a real pain.  Made some recent adjustments at around 15 deg F.  The LCD display on the Classic is also very slow to change due to the cold temperature that it took much longer to change. 

It would also be nice to record the current settings for customers with either a screen capture on the PC or log file that can be accessible easily.

Dustin

[zoneblue]

No idea what the plan is, but i would add a vote for the stronger intergration betw local app and MNGP code releases, 1:1 functionality. Even if i had a MNGP, id still use the local app in preference. Maybe im lazy but i dont have to move from my desk to do it;) Its also kind of dark in the shed.

[ClassicCrazy]

Maybe I am missing something but I thought the plan is to move to adjusting the Classic settings via a remote interface on a computer.  Is that still the plan? 

I know I struggle with the menu by using the push buttons as once I have a version figured out it does tend to change. Compiled that making adjustments in the northern states in the Winter is a real pain.  Made some recent adjustments at around 15 deg F.  The LCD display on the Classic is also very slow to change due to the cold temperature that it took much longer to change. 

It would also be nice to record the current settings for customers with either a screen capture on the PC or log file that can be accessible easily.

Dustin

Most of the settings you can change on Local App but new ones take awhile to catch up on the Local App.
I have considered running a long cable to bring the MNGP display inside into the warmth. It wouldn't be too hard for me , except the Local App does most everything I want to monitor.  But maybe tomorrow I will see if I can scrounge up a six pin telephone type jack and cord to do it. I need another cord coming in anyway - lets see two cat5's , 6  coax, many other serial and communication cables, power , and more. I love it !,

[Westbranch]

CC, what about a Wifi connection rather than the cable?

[ClassicCrazy]

Wifi for the display ?  Not sure how that would work.  I don't think that is compatible with IP and WiFi

[zoneblue]

Well, curious i just looked it up

http://modbus.control.com/thread/1026207200

Modbus RTU/RS485 good for 1200ft? Wow.

ZB.

[ClassicCrazy]

Okay - did it  - Classic display now nested in with Trimetric's for easy warm access.  Found a 30 foot piece of phone cable with the correct RJ 11 6 pin connectors , removed display from Classic , plugged it in and works - nothing seemed to be erased. Photo below