Can't Change Absorb Time

[Tucker Ridge]

I just swapped out batteries and reconfigured from 4x8 T-105s to 3x8 T-125s (48V), and can't change Absorb Time on Classic 150.
When I try to change the Absorb Time, it may move a couple of minutes, but then always reverts to 18:03. I tried turning of the Solar Function then changing Absorb Time, but to no avail.
I can change the EQ time.
Firmware:     
- Classic Rev: 1401
- Network Rev: 1194

Thank you

[ClassicCrazy]

That is a really old firmware version.
Why don't you update the firmware, then do a factory reset, and see if it fixes your problem.
Instructions here
https://www.midnitesolar.com/firmwareReport.php?firmware_ID=19&firmwareProduct_ID=1&act=edit
Larry

[Tucker Ridge]

Many thanks for the advice and quick response, Larry!

I did not do a factory reset as the Absorb Time was configurable after upgrading the firmware.

Best -Patrick

[ClassicCrazy]

You still may want to do a factory restore since some of the new features from the old to newer firmware might need that to show up or work right.
Did you update both the classic and the mngp ?
Glad you got it working .

Larry

[Tucker Ridge]

I think you are correct about the reset. I just found another entry (Limits::T-Comp::Max Volts) behaving the same way.
Can I use Export/Import Registry to update the settings after reset?
Is there a resource to whom I could send my Registry and system info for review and correction?

Thanks -Patrick

[ClassicCrazy]

I think you are correct about the reset. I just found another entry (Limits::T-Comp::Max Volts) behaving the same way.
Can I use Export/Import Registry to update the settings after reset?
Is there a resource to whom I could send my Registry and system info for review and correction?

Thanks -Patrick

Yes you can back up your settings using the local status app from Midnite, and then restore them after the factory reset.
Though it doesn't hurt to go through and make sure everything looks good since you did a major update .But all your old settings should transfer through .
Doing the factory reset should fix your problems and if it doesn't we can analyze what is up.
Also - wanted to be sure that when you did the firmware update - did you do both parts of it - one for the Classic and another for the MNGP ?
Larry

[Tucker Ridge]

Indeed, both updates (Classic firmware and MNGP) completed without issue.

I know the basic settings and where to get them, but the advanced things (Limits, Comps...) are beyond me and my original dealer has gone on a long vacation. That's why I was asking about a resource to check all the Registry entries. I contacted MidNite tech support, but they did not seem to get what I was asking and the Check Ticket Status is not working. Therefore, getting a discussion going with them isn't happening.

Since MN did not put Version and Rev numbers in the properties of the Local App, I don't know how old mine is. Before proceeding with the Registry Export and factory reset, Should I download and install from the MN website to be sure I have the latest?

Thank you -Patrick 

[ClassicCrazy]

local status app usually prompts you when there are update ( mainly to adobe air which it uses as a platform).
So you are probably okay with that if it works okay.
I can help you with those other settings.
You probably don't have to worry about the amp limits with your solar and lead acid batteries. Just leave them at the defaults .
The temperature compensation for your batteries is probably -3mv is what you would enter ( trojan should have that info for sure in their published specs).
What else did you want to know ?
Do you have a Whizbang ?
Also take a look here - there are a lot of common asked questions and other good info .
http://www.midniteftp.com/support/kb/index.php
Larry

[Tucker Ridge]

I'd imagine you hear it all the time, but...
You're a life saver!

I'll read through the KB and plan the reset for tomorrow.
No WhizBang.

After the reset, I'll hit you up for some advice on which defaults I can leave and which to change.
I know the current value for Comp is -5mV (default) and Trojan says: 0.005 volt per cell for every 1°C below 25°C
0.0028 volt per cell for every 1°F below 77°F
0.005 volt per cell for every 1°C above 25°C
0.0028 volt per cell for every 1°F above 77°F

For Absorb Time, MN said 6:48 if we use 50% overnight. We never do, even in winter. It's more like 5-10%. Currently, it's set to 2:00 per original installers advice. should I do the math on that one?

Thank you -Patrick

[ClassicCrazy]

Not sure how much whizbang and shunt that is needed cost these days but it is a great addition since it lets you know exactly how much power you took out of your battery and how much you put back in. There is no other way to know that because of loads .
And you can set up ending amps if you want to if you have a whizbang.  What that does is lets the absorb time vary according to what the battery needs. You set a longer absorb time and the ending amps will terminate the absorb if ending amps comes first.
But your two hours absorb is probably okay if you have enough loads every night. You may need only like one hour if you don't take the batteries down very much. No need to be boiling the batteries for an extra hour if the batteries are already full. You will be adding lots of extra water to the batteries .
So yeah since trojan says -5mv for temp comp you can just leave the default in there. If the batteries get cold you will see the absorb setpoint go higher automatically  in relation to the temperature.

Larry

[Tucker Ridge]

This is starting to make some sense to me and I sure do appreciate the lessons.

I found the whole SHeBANG (Shunt and Whiz Bang Jr) on Northern Arizona Wind and Sun for $116 including tax and shipping to my PO in Maine. It's much less expensive than MidNite.
I'm watching the install video now, before I place the order, to determine whether I can do it or need my electrician.
Once again, great call, Larry.

I still plan to do a factory reset this afternoon on the Classic.
I'll be in touch...

Thanks -Patrick

[ClassicCrazy]

The shunt will go between battery negative and all the other negative connections.
So just one negative connection that goes to the negative battery terminal on one side of the shunt.
The other side of the shunt will be connections going to  every negative  on the system.
That way the whizbang will know exactly everything going into and out of the battery .
There are a few youtube videos where people show how they installed shunt and whizbang.
The hardest thing for you might be putting a ring terminal on a heavy gauge wire from the battery - depends on your setup.
I have an inexpensive hydraulic crimping tool from harbor freight that I use though it won't go as big as 4/0 or 2/0 cables if that is what you have.
If you get the correct size terminal some electricians may have hydraulic crimping tool and could put that terminal on for you .
Larry

[Tucker Ridge]

I've been watching the videos - seems fairly straight-forward.
Cables from battery bank to inverter are 2/0. $24 for pre-made 3 footer from Battery Cables USA.
Our config is simple - One Classic, one inverter, and the battery bank. So, only two connectors from the battery bank to the inverter, Pos and Neg.
Am I correct that I'll take the Neg off of the inverter, attach it to the "battery side" of the shunt, then run a new cable from the "load side" of the shunt to the Neg of the inverter? If so, will adding 3ft on the Neg side adversely affect anything due to asymmetry in the length of the cable runs?
Thanks -Patrick

[ClassicCrazy]

Battery neg to one side of shunt
Inverter to the other side of shunt
You don't have to worry about the extra 3 foot of wire you might put in there on negative side.
Make sure that the cable you order has the right size hole to fit the shunt - I forget now but that info is in shunt specs.
Larry

[Tucker Ridge]

Hey Larry-
The Whiz Bang Jr, shunt, and cable are on order and expected within a week. Good call on the lugs. I checked several suppliers before I found the spec - it is 3/8". When I get them, I'll notify my electrician who hasn't done much solar but he reviewed the videos, your advice, and my system last night. He says it'll be a snap for us (him).

I did the reset this morning and would like to review some of the settings with you. If you are amenable, should I attach screenshots from the local app, or pics of the menus via MNGP? Or would you rather do that via eMail?
I noticed the red LED for AUX 1 is not lit but the circuit is on and the fan is running. Do you know if the LED's "Rick Mode" has changed?
Also, some of the entries didn't reset - is that OK? System Name, Net (I set a static IP) are two I noticed right off that didn't reset.
Thank you -Patrick