Classic with Separate Diversion Controller

[boB]

Edward, boB,

Sorry I omitted the link.  Here's what we've used:

http://www.futurlec.com/RelSS.shtml

~kitestrings

OK, I see the   SSRDC200V40A   SPST 0-200Vdc 40A DC Solid State Relay  for $27

I was looking at the Crydoms and their data sheet shows a 400V and 500 V DC optically isolated version but when I go to the BUY page, it is not there.  Maybe they couldn't make it work correctly or had other issues ?

And Futurlec doesn't have anything over 200V ?  For the wind side of things, it must be higher than, say, 300 Volts.  I prefer 500V.

Anybody know what's going on ?

Thanks,
boB

[kitestrings]

e,

yes


Edward,

The relays arrived in timely fashion from Bangkok.  So far, Ive had no problems operating since spring of 2009.

I used a stock Marathon tank that I bought in a silient auction.  Changed the port bushings to accomodate the NPT thread of the DC elements.  I use the stock thermosats to actuate the SSR's; they in turn control the elements.  I don't know how to add photos - new to this board - but you can see some pics, and a schematic here:

http://www.fieldlines.com/board/index.php/topic,130053.html

I have (just) three under the age of 5.  You got a troop!  Gotta lov'em.  The mixing valve is a Honeywell.  Very simple, very accurate temp control.  I have the input to my Tagaki heater set about 110 degF.  It gives us nearly twice (30,000 Btus) the storage for the size.

It just seems like there are a lot of useful potential dumps (water heating, compressed air for the shop, charging a Leaf - maybe someday).

~kitestrings

[keyturbocars]

boB,

You must be trying to come up with a way to control/brake a DC wind turbine.  I did some quick scanning around to see what I could come up with, but you are right and the options are limited and not cheap for DC SSR's at that higher voltage range. 

I saw these Crydom SSC series which are IGBT (you probably saw these already):

http://www.crydom.com/en/Products/Catalog/s_sc.pdf

Best price I found for the SSC1000-25-12 (1000VDC, 25A, 12VDC control) version was $157.

http://www.todaycomponents.com/crydom-ssc1000-25-12-solid-state-relay.html

Edward

[keyturbocars]

kitestrings,

Yes, we have a troop around here with the 7 young children running around!  You've got your hands full too with 3 children under the age of 5 years old.  They are a handful (and a blessing)! 

You live in a beautiful area.  Nice job on your water heater setup.  The more I think about the water mixer idea, the more I think what a great idea it is!  It could help my 80 gallon water heater behave like a much bigger tank without the added expense of a larger water heater.

I could see your water mixer in the one picture, but I could not see clearly how the pipes were hooked up.  Did you just connect it between the incoming cold pipe and outgoing hot pipe on top of your Marathon water heater?  I was wondering if it would be necessary to bring in a separate cold water line to make things work properly.

Edward

[kitestrings]

I think it is a Honeywell AM-1 ($50-60).  Hard to tell without the insulation, but you just "T" off the incoming cold line to the valve.  Three connections:  hot, cold & mixed.

I added an LED light in parallel with the aux contacts so I can see when we're diverting.  Then I just turn off the breaker if I want to defeat it - say, during equalization charging, or charging from the aux generator.

Seven?

~kitestrings

[keyturbocars]

Yep, 7!  Here's my clan.  My older boys HATE getting their pictures taken, so they always act like turds (make grumpy faces) during family pictures.  If I want to get a good family picture, then I have to threaten them!  



I'm glad to hear that the mixer valve can simply T into the cold line on top of the water heater, then input the hot from the tank into the mixer valve, and then have the "mixed" side going to the outgoing pipe.  I definitely plan to do this.  Thanks for the idea.

I also bought an LED to wire into my DC SSR so I can see when it's diverting.  Right now, I use a control system for diversion that uses a big relay.  It makes a loud click sound everytime it starts and stops diverting.  At first, it was really annoying to me (because my "office" is in the utility room where I have my RE stuff), but then I got used to it.  In fact, I now like it because it gives me an audible signal as to what's happening with my water heating diversion.  Once I switch to the Classic to maximize the power harvest from my wind turbine, then I'll stop using this other controller.  Since the SSR will be silent, I wanted to at least have the LED so I can at least see when it's diverting.

Edward  

[kitestrings]

cute kids (even with the smugs).  I've got to figure out how to post pictures, graphics - never enough hours

There are leds on the relays themselves on ours, but it's in the basement, so that doesn't help much.

good luck

~kitestrings

[keyturbocars]

I just got home after being out of town for 5 days, and guess what present was awaiting me when I got home???

My Classic 150 arrived today!  Woohooo!   

Edward

[Halfcrazy]

I just got home after being out of town for 5 days, and guess what present was awaiting me when I got home???

My Classic 150 arrived today!  Woohooo!   

Edward

That is cool. If you have any questions when you start playing with it feel free to call.

[keyturbocars]

Thanks, Halfcrazy.  I'm looking forward to getting it set up and running!

[keyturbocars]

A small update.  I've been busy with other responsibilities in life, but today I was able to finish a little something.  I ordered a large aluminum heat sink to mount my new rectifier, 3 phase solid state relay, and DC solid state relay.  The 3 phase will be a part of the "Clipper" that will dump 3 phase AC power to a heating load in order to control input voltage into the Classic.  I will also use it to control the speed of my turbine.  The DC SSR will divert power to my water heater when the battery bank is fully charged. 



I riveted some aluminum angle to the sides of the heat sink that I will use as brackets for mounting to the wall.  I still need to drill the mounting holes for where the screws will mount it to the wall.  The heat sink will be mounted vertical so that there will be a natural "chimney" convection cooling effect.   I drilled and tapped the mounting holes for the components.  I polished the surface of the heat sink and then hand lapped the bottom surfaces of the rectifier and 2 SSR relays.  I did this to try to ensure good heat conduction.  I then applied Arctic Silver thermal heat transfer compound on the bottom of all 3 components.



We are having some stormy and windy weather predicted for the next few days, so I don't plan to disconnect my turbine to do the change over to the Classic yet.  I want to wait until it's calm outside (so I don't have a runaway turbine while disconnecting wiring), and also I want to continue to harvest the power during this windy time.

That's all so far.

Edward

[kitestrings]

Edward,

That's a surprisingly small rectifier.  I'd just assumed that we'd build a bridge rectifier with stud mounted rectifier diodes.  That's what I'm familar with, and it allows individual diodes to be replace, but we may have to rethink this.  Are they pricey?

~kitestrings

[keyturbocars]

kitestrings,

I paid around $95USD for this Powersem PSD 192/18 (which included postage from Germany).  I couldn't find this 3 phase rectifier in the US for sale (except used), and so I ordered mine from here:

http://www.semimart.net/shop/product_info.php?info=p199_PSD192-18.html&language=en

It is rated at 248A and 1800V, so it will have a large factor of safety for my wind turbine system.  I could have used a rectifier with half those specs (both current and voltage), but for a reasonable price I was able to buy this high quality, made in Germany rectifier.

Edward

[boB]

Looks very nice Mr. Turbos !

I now have a couple of Teledyne SSRs for AC and DC use.

http://www.teledynerelays.com/pdf/industrial/e3p.pdf   3 phase for AC side use

and

http://www.teledynerelays.com/pdf/industrial/SI.pdf    for DC use but for the
DC (IGBT) type, some other components have to be added to keep down the
inductive flyback of the load resistor when it turns off.

These are very nice parts but are in very short supply at the moment.
Hopefully we can get Teledyne to make a bunch more !

boB

[keyturbocars]

The specs on those look real good boB. 

Did you get one of the 75A 3 phase SSR? 

I really would have preferred to have a 75A 3 phase SSR to have a bigger factor of safety.  I went for the 50A Crydom 3 phase because it was available, and didn't know about the Teledyne SSR's.  That's why I chose a big heat sink to try to keep temperatures under control and hopefully improve reliability.

What's the street price on those Teledyne 3 phase SSR's?

Edward