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#1
General Discussion / Re: Magnum BMK SOC tracking is...
Last post by ClassicCrazy - Today at 12:02:11 PM
You should check into some other monitoring and control programs like Node-Red or Home Assistant where you can take data from a variety of sources and then use it to do what you want to .
Larry
#2
Quote from: Mike W on Today at 08:06:36 AMWith boB's tragic and untimely passing does anyone know if his work on the lithium code for the Classic is being pursued? Is 3800 the last code in beta?
I have a 150 that has the 0% SOC issue. A VMM did not help and I tried boB's trick to force the SOC to 100% and as he expected it did not work.

Mike
I used Bobs lithium firmware for a long time and never had the SOC issue. That is  until I had to do some kind of reset on my system and then all of a sudden the SOC at 0 started.
I have a suggestion if the rest of the firmware works correctly for you, and you don't use SOC to control anything via AUX. You can get a Victron Smart Shunt that will independently display SOC along with voltage and current. The data is available on the Victron app , or there are also ways to bring it directly into other monitoring programs without using the Victron app.
From my perspective, Bob was the main wizard with the Classic firmware and innovations. Since Midnite has new products with  different communication ( canbus ) I doubt there will be any other firmwares produced for the Classic other than the stable version that is on their website now. I went back to the stable firmware , but now that I have a smart shunt in my system, I could consider going back to the lithium firmware since it worked pretty good. Either that or phase out the Classics eventually even though they work well they don't offer the high voltage pv input advantages. But their monitoring capability and open soure github monitoring projects are fantastic and better than the new products .
Larry   
 
#3
You might consider adding more panels at a different angle.
See post https://midniteftp.com/forum/index.php?topic=6927.0

It seems to be working for my ROVER60A. You would need blocking diodes.
#4
I never tested out to see how much I could overload a Classic before something melts. 
You could always automate the addition of extra PV to your Renogy using some dc contactors and probably use the aux logic of one of you Classics to do the switching .
But sure would be easier to get another controller than to do all that.
Larry
#5
The Black Box project / Re: ARM board evaluation
Last post by FrankgEw - Today at 10:58:07 AM
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#6
General Discussion / Re: Magnum BMK SOC tracking is...
Last post by qcda1 - Today at 08:47:48 AM
Thanks for the reply! So the BMK is the equivalent of the Midnite WbJr and allow the AGS (AutoGenStart) module to run the generator based on %SOC instead of battery voltage for example. It shares the same 500A/50mV shunt between the battery negative lead and the rest. My battery bank is made of four Maple Leaf LiFePO4 48VDC/100Ah batteries in parallel. I was able to get BMS data for the pack and each battery. As you mention, I saw the BMS SOC going everywhere at commissionning until the batteries were fully charged (Voltage raise and very low tail current). So with my archived data, I believe I can simulate the 100% "declaration" of the BMK based on their 3 factors:
1. The charging voltage stabilizes over time (see Figure 3-1).
2. The charging current decreases to a low percentage of the AH capacity—normally less than 2%.
3. The AH removed from the battery are within 1% of fully being returned.
And see if the conditions were really met or there is a bug in the unit.

The other thing I can play with is the battery efficiency factor in the BMK. By default it is at Auto. I might experiment with this to see if I can get the thing to behave.
This wouldn't be an issue if it was measuring too low. But measuring too high, this prevent me from setting the generator trigger adequately low to maximize battery's storage capacity in cloudy days...

Daniel.
#7
With boB's tragic and untimely passing does anyone know if his work on the lithium code for the Classic is being pursued? Is 3800 the last code in beta?
I have a 150 that has the 0% SOC issue. A VMM did not help and I tried boB's trick to force the SOC to 100% and as he expected it did not work.

Mike
#8
MNPowerFlo16 / Re: precharge and commissionin...
Last post by karlsolar - Today at 06:31:01 AM
here is the procedure I got from my supplier, it looks like it was copypasted from someone else, perhaps someone at Midnite?

Thank you for your patience here is the method below:

1- turn on Battery breaker on inverter

2- Turn on PF16 or PF5 breaker(s)

3- Push power button on Master PF

 FWIW. 
#9
Quote from: ClassicCrazy on Today at 12:07:57 AMWhy don't you just get another controller ?  Or  upgrade to a bigger controller that can handle more power ?

Mainly cause it's the low light conditions I'm interested in, and hate to spend money if not needed; Granted if it blows up, I'll 'should have' just bought two+. 

It does raise the original question, can this happen with Midnite's classic charge controllers? Can they be PV overloaded or can they self regulate to any level? Example: a cLASSIC 250, 63AMP Controller; say it's connected to eight 250W, 32v 7.8A panels to a 12V battery bank; My understanding with the classic is it will throttle itself just fine at the max(or set) 63amp output @ ~12V; What if there were 24 of those same panels; Is there a point that it will get damaged like Renogy says happens to theirs?

Renogy recommended I physically be there to connect/disconnect panels for more power in low light(ugh, no)...
#10
Quote from: Onlooker on February 05, 2025, 06:00:28 PMBump...

Well the Renogy Rover 40A system has been running since the original post in 2023 with ~1000Watts and regular Error "PV Power Overload". I put a 5" fan right on the back(heat sink, otherwise passively cooled) of the charge controller and I know it's no guarantee(depending where the heat is generated and the temperature sensor), but it runs cooler to the sensor & touch on the heatsink with the cooling fan and "Power overload" than without the fan and 500w/no-"power overload".

I still want more low light performance and.. I think I'm about to super-duper risk blowing the Renogy controller by attaching 1500 watts to the system to see if it handles it the same... Maybe it doesn't matter, once overloaded it's overloaded, since the output remains the same from 600w to 1000w input...

Any more details/warning on why this is extra bad idea, or might it continue to work? Depends on the mechanism the controller is using to throttle power I suppose.

Or I wonder if there might be a cheap automated way to 'connect more panels' when there is less light.

Why don't you just get another controller ?  Or  upgrade to a bigger controller that can handle more power ?
Larry